When people think of adaptive sports, the first things that come to mind are Para-Olympic Sports such as adaptive skiing, swimming and basketball. Would you believe me if I told you someone with spinal cord injury could surf? In fact, a lot of them surf better than most able-bodied surfers.
Surfing is life changing. For me, it is therapy. For other adaptive surfers, it’s their lifeline. Imagine losing motor control and sensation of your body. Depending on the injury site, it could affect the lower body and/or the upper body.
Learning to brush your teeth and feed yourself. Training yourself to be independent with a spinal cord injury is no easy feat. It can wear down the confidence of very tenacious people. It’s hard not to compare the current state to the pre-injury state. Taking on something completely new can be a healthy challenge because there is no reference of self comparison.
Whether it’s learning to surf or waveski, you will get pounded by waves. You have to work hard. But, when you catch a wave, it will dig its hooks into you! Freedom! There is no other feeling like it in the world. You are walking on water.
You return to the challenge every day and you get a bit better. Being in the water allows you to forget your troubles on land. You must be present when you surf. Is there a wave coming? How big is the wave? Which way is it breaking? Are you going to try and catch this one or is it a wave of consequence?
I had the pleasure to surf with some of the best adaptive surfers in the world. I was told that they feel empowered in the water. When they are out there, they shine. People stop focusing on the disability and shortcoming. They see the incredible skill and ability of an athlete.
It is such a blast to surf with my fellow adaptive surfers. I am an able bodied person so I can help them get in and out of the water. Once we are all in the water, I need their eyes to help me see. We yell and hoot when we catch waves. Everyday in the water is a beautiful day.
Adaptive surfing is not limited to spinal cord injured athletes. There are classes for amputees, hearing impaired and vision impaired. Some competitions even offer a junior division. It is all about inclusion.
There is a very strong sense of love and support amongst the adaptive surfing community. We all help each other out and have the same goal. That goal is to spread the stoke and grow the sport of adaptive surfing. We make a better world by empowering each other and working together. Not by judgment and discrimination.
These athletes are not just world champions of surfing. They are the world champions of life!
Contact me if you have any questions.